Ichiran Ramen in Ueno: The Solo Dining Experience That Scored a 9.6

I went to Tokyo in spring 2012 — cherry blossoms, Mount Fuji, the whole deal. But the thing I was most excited about was the food. Specifically, ramen. I spent a couple of hours googling “best ramen in Tokyo” before I even packed my bags, and one name kept coming up: Ichiran.

The branch I went to is in Ueno Station — 7-1-1 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo. Not far from where I was staying, which was convenient because Tokyo’s public transport makes getting anywhere straightforward. The subway system is dense and efficient — you genuinely don’t need a car.

Finding the Place

Getting to Ueno Station was easy. Finding Ichiran inside the station was not.

I got lost. Properly lost. The station is a maze, and the signage wasn’t pointing me in the right direction. Eventually I found a janitor and showed him the name of the restaurant on my phone. My Japanese at the time was basically non-existent. He pointed me the right way, and I found it.

The iconic red signboard and noren curtain — once you spot it, you know you’re in the right place.

How It Works

Ichiran isn’t like a normal restaurant. The whole experience is designed around solo dining, and it’s unlike anything I’d seen before.

At the entrance there’s a display showing which seats are available. The place has 27 counter seats and 10 table seats — it’s not big.

The Vending Machine

You don’t order from a waiter. You buy a ticket from a vending machine at the entrance — insert cash, press the button for what you want, and the machine spits out a ticket. I went for the tonkotsu ramen with extra chashu.

The Order Form

This is where it gets interesting. After you sit down, they give you a customization form — a sheet where you circle your preferences for everything.

Broth richness. Noodle firmness. Saltiness. Garlic level. Spice level. Scallion amount. Chashu preference. You dial in exactly the bowl you want. It’s available in English too, so don’t worry if you can’t read Japanese.

The Booth

You sit in an individual cubicle — wooden partitions on both sides, a bamboo curtain in front. It’s just you and the ramen. No distractions, no small talk, no one watching you slurp. The design is intentional — Ichiran wants you to focus entirely on the flavour.

Place your ticket and form near the curtain, press the call button, and a pair of hands collects them. A few minutes later, the curtain lifts and your bowl appears. Then it drops again. You never see the chef’s face. It’s oddly intimate.

Need a noodle refill? There’s a button for that too. Place the refill plate on the tray, press the button, and more noodles appear. The system is brilliantly simple.

The Ramen

After about ten minutes, it arrived.

The broth was thick, creamy, and deeply rich — proper tonkotsu that’s been simmered for hours. The noodles were thin and firm, cooked exactly to the texture I’d circled on the form. The chashu was tender and melted into the soup. Scallions were fresh and sharp.

And then there’s the signature red chilli sauce — a dollop of Ichiran’s secret blend sitting right in the centre of the bowl. It doesn’t overpower the broth. It works with it. There’s heat, but it’s balanced, and it adds a depth that makes you want to keep going back for another spoonful.

The whole thing was perfect. Not “good for the price” or “good for a chain.” Just perfect.

The Verdict

Score: 9.6 / 10 — Ichiran earns its reputation. The tonkotsu broth is world-class, the customization system means you get exactly what you want, and the solo booth format turns a bowl of ramen into a focused, almost meditative experience. At roughly ¥1,000 for a bowl, it’s also absurdly good value.

The place is open 24 hours. So if you’re wandering Ueno at 2am, hungry and jet-lagged — and you will be, because Tokyo does that to you — this is where you go.