Beverly Soon Tofu House: Worth the Wait in Koreatown

I first heard about Beverly Soon Tofu House from Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown. When Bourdain puts a place on camera, you pay attention. So the next time I was in LA, I drove straight to Koreatown to find out if it lived up to the reputation.

The place is small. Really small. There was a 30-minute wait when I arrived, which at a restaurant this size means every seat is taken and people are hovering near the door. That’s exactly the kind of sign you want to see.

The Banchan

Before the main dishes arrive, the ajummas (the aunties running the place with ruthless efficiency and warm smiles) bring out the side dishes. The kimchi was sharp and well-fermented — the kind that’s been sitting for a while and is better for it. The potatoes were a pleasant surprise, lightly seasoned and addictive in that “I’ll just have one more” way.

The Soondubu

This is what you come here for. I ordered both the seafood and kimchi varieties because choosing one felt wrong.

The soup arrived still bubbling in its stone pot, an egg cracked on top and slowly cooking in the heat. The tofu was silky soft — the “soon” in soondubu means soft, and they take that seriously here. The broth was rich without being heavy, with a slow-building heat that warms you from the inside out.

The seafood version had a clean, briny depth. The kimchi version had more punch — tangy and spicy, with that fermented complexity you can’t fake. Both were excellent. If I had to pick one, I’d lean kimchi, but you really can’t go wrong.

The Meat

Beyond the soups, the sizzling platters hold their own. The bulgogi arrived on a hot plate over sliced onions — charred edges, sweet-savoury glaze, sesame seeds, and that unmistakable sound of meat still cooking at the table.

The spicy chicken was just as good — tender pieces with a gochujang-based marinade that had real kick without overwhelming the flavour of the meat itself. Both platters disappeared fast.

The Bibimbap

Almost as an afterthought, I ordered the bibimbap. This turned out to be the sleeper hit of the meal.

A hot stone bowl loaded with rice, an assortment of vegetables, and tender meat, all waiting to be mixed together. The rice at the bottom had that perfect crispy crust from the stone pot — nurungji — which gives you a textural contrast that makes the whole dish sing. Mix everything together with gochujang, and it’s one of those meals that’s simultaneously comforting and exciting.

Order this. Even if you came for the tofu soup, order this.

The Verdict

Beverly Soon Tofu House earned its Bourdain co-sign. It’s not fancy — the space is cramped, the lighting is harsh, and you’ll probably wait. But the food is honest, deeply flavourful, and made by people who’ve clearly been perfecting these dishes for years.

Score: 9.0 / 10 — The soondubu is the real deal, the bibimbap is a must-order, and the whole experience feels like eating at someone’s kitchen who happens to be an incredible cook.

If you’re in LA and you skip Koreatown, you’re doing it wrong.